IS YOUR DOG A BULLY?

The Class Bully

by Joan Morse, CPDT-KA, www.atouchofcalm.com

Does this sound familiar? Your dog is really very sweet. He knows how to walk nicely on a leash (although sometimes he takes you for a walk when he sees another dog/cat/bird/squirrel) and he greets people nicely as well.

But as soon as you arrive at class he turns into a completely different animal. He drags you through the door, he stares at the other dogs and barks and lunges at them whenever he gets close enough to do so.

You have become the class outcast and must sit far away from everyone else to have some peace and quiet, or you spend the entire class stuck behind a barrier. You are embarrassed and frustrated by your dog’s behavior and don’t know what to do.

School yard bully or scaredy-cat?

Chances are that your dog is not a bully, he is afraid. Maybe it is the building; there are too many strange sights and smells to take in at once. Maybe it is the number of other dogs; he can deal with one or two at a time, but 5 or 6 is asking way too much. Or maybe there is this other dog who is sending signals to him that he finds threatening and he is lashing out before the other dog can.  Whatever the reason, your dog is uncomfortable and trying to protect himself.

Management

Many trainers manage this kind of behavior by placing the disruptive dog behind a barrier. And that works very nicely. It brings calm back to the class and everyone can learn their lessons, including the disruptive dog, although, he cannot participate in exercises as a member of the group. But management does not solve your problem with your dog. He has not learned how to deal with a classroom situation calmly and confidently.

Enter the Thundershirt

While this is not the answer for every situation, boosting your dog’s confidence will often go a long way towards being able to safely integrate your dog into a group.

The Thundershirt is a useful, easy to use tool for doing this. The Thundershirt should be put on before the dog leaves the car at class, or better still, before he leaves home. Try to arrive at class early and  wait outside for his classmates to arrive.  Allow him to greet each one before they go inside. If possible have him approach the other dog’s rear first and sniff for a few seconds. Keep the greetings short and reward your dog as you move away from the greeting for being calm and polite. Make it fun. You must stay calm and positive.  He will pick up on your attitude and mirror it.

Once inside, it may take a few classes to really become a part of the group. Don’t be in a hurry to be in the center of activity. Keep his attention more on you than on the other dogs by giving him simple things to do that you can reward.

Remember to bring a favorite chew toy with you so he has something to do during any down time. That way he won’t be so ready to look around and get into trouble. Make sure your toy is quiet (no squeaky toy please) so he doesn’t disrupt the class or unduly attract the attention of the other dogs.

Each successful class will help build your dog’s confidence and make training classes more effective and fun.

Joan Morse CPDT-KA
A Touch of Calm
Behavior and Obedience Training
www.atouchofcalm.com
302-547-1437
Tellington TTouch Practitioner I
AKC Canine Good Citizen Evaluator

THUNDERSHIRT FOR TIMID DOGS

Helping a Timid Dog – People Shyness

by Courtenay Watson, AHT & RLATp

Although dogs have been around humans for many generations, not all dogs are comfortable with strangers. As puppies, dogs should be socialized carefully and thoroughly during their impressionable stage. This helps ensure the dog will be as comfortable and well behaved as possible for the rest of her life. Sometimes, though, things don’t quite work out that way. You may get a dog as an adult, after that socialization window has closed. What to do then, if your dog is not sure of new people?

Many dogs are nervous of new people, and they will each react in a different way. Some will simply avoid people. Other dogs may bark in alarm, while still others may cower or hide behind their owners. Often, once the person has passed out a few cookies and bent down low to the ground, the dog is much more willing to approach. But what about when that isn’t enough?

When I encounter a dog who is worried about strangers, I do a few things:

1. Pair strangers with lots of fun and food, often simply showering a handful of treats on the dog whenever a stranger appears. It’s important to do this in a way that does not cause the dog to react.
2. Teach the dog an appropriate greeting behaviour, such as touching a fist with his nose, to give him something deliberate to do with a friendly stranger.
3. Put a Thundershirt on the dog prior to any potential greetings.
4. Do set ups with friends and then with known strangers (known to the owner, not the dog) so the situation can be controlled until the dog has some confidence. Again, this should be done such that the dog does not react nervously to the person.

The Thundershirt really seems to calm the dogs with gentle pressure over the body. The dog is able to think and learn faster and better with the Thundershirt than without, and therefore, owners see results faster, and are happier. I haven’t seen any side effects, and for dogs who don’t mind having it on, it’s almost maintenance free. It is a low risk, high benefit tool, and the Thundershirt has proven a great addition to a stranger-nervous dog’s protocol.

Courtenay Watson, AHT & RLATp
Kamloops BC
http://www.cpetrescue.blogspot.com

HOW TO DEAL WITH SEPARATION ANXIETY

Training Programme for Relieving Separation Anxiety

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Here is an extract from Nicole Wilde's Don't Leave Me! Step-by-Step Help for Your Dog's Separation Anxiety  which provides her suggested training programme for when a Thundershirt alone may not be enough.

Nicole Wilde (CPDT) is the author of nine books, a popular columnist in major magazines including Modern Dog Magazine, and sought after speaker. She also teaches seminars and workshops around the country and internationally. For more information about Nicole and her published works, please visit www.phantompub.com.

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Relieving Separation Anxiety
By Nicole Wilde, CPDT

Separation anxiety can be a very challenging problem emotionally for both dogs and their owners. When owners are absent, some dogs experience mild anxiety which may manifest as barking, whining, pacing, or destruction. Others will begin drooling, trembling, and may even defecate. In extreme cases, dogs can injure themselves by clawing at doorways, trying to jump through windows, or self-mutilating when crated.

In mild to moderate cases, the Thundershirt alone may be enough to calm an anxious canine. Put a Thundershirt on your dog ten to fifteen minutes before you leave, and give him an exciting chew item such as a stuffed Kong. Because you don’t want your dog to associate these things only with your departures, be sure to first put a Thundershirt on your dog at other times, such as when playing, eating a meal, or when enjoying a wonderful chewie in your presence.

What if the Thundershirt alone does not solve your dog’s separation issue? First, in the rare case that the anxiety is extreme as mentioned above, consult with a behaviorist as well as your veterinarian, as your dog may require medication in conjunction with behavior modification.

For mild to moderate separation anxiety, a trainer or behavior specialist can help, but for now, here are a few tips:

1. If your dog is left alone when you go to work during the week, make it a habit to take him for a long walk before you leave. The more pleasantly tired out your dog is, the less likely there is to be anxiety.

2. Leave something with your scent on it, such as a sweatshirt you’ve been wearing or a towel rubbed under your arms, in your dog’s resting area. Your scent will provide comfort. (This is one reason so many dogs get into the laundry when their owners are gone!)

3. Be sure your dog has something to chew on or engage in that will keep him busy for at least thirty to forty-five minutes after you’re gone. Excavating a well-stuffed Kong®, for example, will keep your dog busy and by the time he’s done, he’ll be tired out and will hopefully take a nap.

4. Practice short separations. Leave the house for 10 minutes, then come right back. The next time, go for 15 minutes. Build up the time you’re gone, but also, make it unpredictable. So you might leave for 10 minutes, then 15 minutes, then 5 minutes, then 15 minutes again, slowly building up to longer time spent away.

5. Your emotions affect your dog. Keep your comings and goings friendly but low-key.

Bark! Bark! Bark!

by Jenn Merritt, CPDT, 
www.bluedogk9.com

Dogs bark.  Some are naturally more vocal than others, depending on breed type, personality, and their environment.  Every bark is a communication of some type.  Barks can communicate many things including fear, concern, and boredom.  Sometimes, barking can become compulsive or excessive to an owner’s (or neighbors!) ears.  Although there often is no “quick fix” for excessive barking, learning how to properly and humanely manage your dog’s barking can be a simple process and can keep you and your dog in your neighbor’s good graces.

First…What Not To Do!

Excessive barking can be a real nuisance and owners often try to correct the act of barking WITHOUT addressing the underlying causes. Using an aversive method to reduce barking is a “no win” strategy, particularly if the barking is at all stress related.   Yelling at a dog for barking can actually bring the dog more attention or teach the dog to simply bark when you are not around.

Using so-called “anti-bark” shock or spray collars are never effective in the long term and can actually do more harm than good.  Dogs who are shocked for barking tend to be the same dogs that develop cautiousness or aggressive behaviors towards things that make them bark.   Even the citronella discharge collars are ineffective at resolving barking issues over the long term.  I’ve even heard of dogs barking continuously to discharge the entire citronella pack in short order.  As much as these things seem like a good idea, none of them address what is really causing the dog to bark in the first place.

Now…What To Try First

Sometimes the easiest underlying causes of excessive barking to address are overall stress and/or arousal.  Being bored, lonely, or frustrated for some dogs is torture and excessive barking can be an outlet for them. Applying a Thundershirt^TM pressure wrap can be highly effective with dogs that are stressed or over-aroused.   Thundershirt’s gentle pressure on the dog’s torso calms the dog and brings attention away from the environment.  Also, make sure that you are providing your dog with enough physical and mental activities to keep their bodies and minds healthy.  Long walks, games, running around, and healthy things to chew are essential outlets for every dog’s well being.

Become a Bark Detective

The next step to bark reduction is figuring out why the dog is barking in the first place.  Is your dog barking at you for attention?  Barking at a stranger walking past your home?  Barking at the cat when it enters the room?  Barking because they are in the yard outside all day long?  Once you narrow down why the barking is occurring, we can take steps to reduce it.

Attention Seeking

Many dogs learn that barking gets them attention from their humans, as a way to initiate a game or simple acknowledgement.  The best strategy for eliminating this type of barking is to make sure that your dog learns that barking at you turns attention off.  If your dog barks at you, you look away, don’t say a word, walk out of the room and when they are quiet for even a short period time, then you pay attention to them.  You may need to repeat this many, many times before your dog learns the new rules.

Visual Cues/Alert Barking/Environmental Factors

Many dogs are barking at something or stimulated by their environment to bark.  This is not a situation where we want to completely eliminate the barking, just reduce it.  After all, if someone is standing outside your house, don’t you want to know?   There are several strategies worth trying.  First, teach your dog that every time they bark at something, you acknowledge it and then distract them with another activity.  “Oh yes, I see that man passing the house.  Thank you for letting me know.  Let’s go over here and get your ball.  That was so great that you stopped barking.”   Interrupting the barking at just the right time can help take the dog “off duty”.

Also, it is easy enough to reduce the visual stimulation with a barrier or blinds.  I’ve worked with several dogs that would stand on top of a piece of furniture that was placed next to a window, creating a prime location for over-aroused, barking fits at passersby.  By simply moving the furniture away from the windows, we were able to reduce the behavior.    If your dog is outside barking at people, bring them inside or give them something else to do in the yard.  Being outside with nothing to do can be a recipe for excessive barking.  Changing the environment can make a big difference.

Remember…Time and Patience

Teaching your dog to react differently to situations that stimulate them to bark is a process.  You must be consistent over time and not give up if your dog doesn’t respond immediately.  Be patient and help your dog understand what you do want them to do. If your dog’s barking continues to be a problem, enlist the help of a reward based, professional dog trainer.

Jenn Merritt, CPDT-KA
Certified Professional Dog Trainer
Tellington TTouch Companion Animal Practitioner
APDT Professional Member
Blue Dog Creature Coaching
Efland, NC

TRAVEL ANXIETY

Depending on the severity of your dog’s travel anxiety, a Thundershirt alone may be enough to solve your issues.

The use of Thundershirt alone has eliminated or significantly reduced symptoms such as severe shaking, panting, excitability, barking and even vomiting.

But there are also easy steps you can take to further help your dog to be a happy traveler. See below for a training program and training video. We have also provided answers to a variety of common questions for travel anxiety.




Relieving Travel-Related Anxiety
By Jenn Merritt, CPDT

Shaking, panting, drooling, nausea, hyper-arousal with lunging at cars, or bikes or people. Sound like a fun car trip? Unfortunately, all are symptoms of travel anxiety, a common problem for dogs. Some dogs develop travel anxieties over time, while others have them from puppyhood. But with just a little time and effort, and the right tools, you can bring the joys of travel to your dog.

If you are preparing to bring a new puppy into your home, see the section below on positive prevention. But if you are reading this article, you likely already have a dog that suffers from travel anxiety. First off, if the issues have been going on for some time, it is likely going to take some time to alter your dog’s responses to travel. But here are some simple steps to calmer, gentler travel. And you may very well see at least some improvement very quickly!

Signs of Stress
It is important to learn to recognize when your dog is becoming stressed. Most of us know that vocalizations and vomiting can be common occurrences when dogs become stressed in a vehicle. But more subtle signs of stress can include yawning, shaking off, lip licking, dilated pupils, panting, lifting a front paw and excessive salivation. Identifying stress signs early can help the process of helping your dog overcome her stress.

It’s a Wrap - Thundershirt
The first step is to help your dog feel safe and reduce her overall anxiety/arousal levels while being around and in the car. Try a pressure wrap like the Thundershirt which can instantly reduce arousal, nervousness and anxiety by applying constant, gentle pressure on the dog’s body. This pressure has a calming effect on a dog’s nervous system, and can refocus a dog to concentrate on their bodies instead of their environment. Apply the Thundershirt at varying intervals prior to and/or during the below exercises, sometimes 5 minutes prior to a car experience, sometimes more and less. 

New Associations
The goal is to get your dog to associate positive experiences with being around, inside, and while riding in the car. If the only time your dog goes for a car ride is to go to the vet, she will likely associate the car ride with not-so-pleasant experiences (and understandably so!).

Below are just a few of the simple things you can do linking the car to something positive (food!). How your dog responds to food can tell you how your dog is feeling. Most dogs that are feeling stress will refuse food, so if your dog is eating, she is OK.

If all goes well, you can progress through the steps as your dog demonstrates she is comfortable, which may be just a few sessions over several days. If you are seeing stress signs, you may need to take a step backward until your dog relaxes:

1. If your dog is nervous just being near the car, start by hand feeding meals beside the car, each meal moving the bowl closer to, then inside the car with the doors open. Ask your dog for simple commands as you move around the car, rewarding for correct responses. We want to get and keep them thinking.

2. Next, sit with your dog in the car, feed a meal, relax, and don’t go anywhere. Close the car doors for a moment.

3. With each meal, spend a little more time in the car. You may want to introduce a crate or travel carrier at this point, putting a stuffed Kong or other food stuffed toy in the crate or with your dog in the back seat.

4. Next, start the car and sit for a moment (but don’t go anywhere yet). As long as your dog is relaxed, drive up and down in the driveway a few times or drive around the block.

5. Each meal, lengthen the trip, trying to think of fun destinations you can go to regularly. Short, enjoyable field trips should become part of your routine.  

Safe Containment
Regardless of your dog’s travel related behavior issue, every dog should ride while safely contained. The type of containment can play a role in your dog’s travel related behaviors.

For over-aroused dogs, try a plastic travel crate instead of a wire crate. This blocks some of the dog’s visual field, giving them less to look at and less to be aroused by. Nervous dogs may also benefit from a plastic vs. wire kennel.  

Start At the Beginning -- Positive Prevention for New Puppies
If you are bringing a new puppy into your home, following some simple steps can go a long way to avoiding travel-related anxieties. When puppies are exposed to repeated positive associations from a very early age, many car-related behavior issues can be avoided all together.

Beginning with the very first time you bring your puppy home, make car rides pleasant, calm experiences. If you are lucky to be adopting your puppy from a conscientious breeder, then your puppy likely will have already been exposed to pleasant car rides.

But the first car ride home with a new family can be stressful for any puppy, so plan on making it a positive trip. Have someone gently hold the puppy (not the person driving!) and feed a few high-value treats (e.g. XXXX) or introduce a toy, such as a stuffed Kong, so your puppy can concentrate on something other than the car ride.

After you arrive home, make a habit of feeding your new puppy some of her meals in the car from a stuffed Kong or other puzzle toy with the car parked in the driveway. If all goes well, start the car and drive around the block. Introduce your puppy to a travel crate, puppy seat belt or other containment so she can ride safely in the car. Make riding in the car something that happens all the time.

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